Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Richmond Trip, Day Two / Cold Harbor and Petersburg

After sleeping in, at least a little bit, we began our second day of the Richmond trip with Cold Harbor – led by Dr. Guelzo himself. He opened with an explanation of the utter exhaustion that the Army of the Potomac and the Army of Northern Virginia alike suffered by late May of 1864. After discussing Grant’s frustration with geography during the Overland campaign, we moved on to the Sixth Corps position on June 1. Dr. Guelzo then described the contribution of the 2nd Connecticut Heavy Artillery, of Upton’s brigade, in the Union attack. We then saw several lines of entrenchments – labeled as Confederate, but Dr. Guelzo disagreed. We continued walking through the battlefield as Dr. Guelzo explained the bloodshed of the June 3 battle and the decision of men to disobey orders to attack – indicating the measure of casualties and the terror experienced by the Army of the Potomac. We concluded the morning with a photograph at the 2nd Connecticut Heavy Artillery monument - and an impromptu discussion of the balloon corps.

After lunch, we met Randy Watkins at the Petersburg. We began by becoming acquainted with the siege of Petersburg with the National Park’s video on the subject. We then went outside with Mr. Watkins and did artillery practice – probably the most fun, in Dr. Guelzo’s own words, that we’ll have all semester! (To be fair, he isn’t wrong.) We then made our way to Ft. Stedman and discussed the action there – and Mr. Watkins explained that this was the last real offensive made by the Army of Northern Virginia during the Civil War. We concluded at the Crater, where Mr. Watkins had us figure out the tricky ventilation system in the tunnel and described the battle there as a good plan, poorly executed. Sunday, on to Appomattox Court House, and then back home to Gettysburg.

Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Richmond Trip, Day One / The Wilderness and Spotsylvania

We began our trip to Richmond by heading down to the Wilderness and Spotsylvania – close to the Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville battlefields we visited several weeks ago. We met with our intrepid guide, Don Pfanz, and braved the cold and rain as we began the morning. (Appropriate, at least!)

We started the tour with a discussion of Grant’s motivations and intentions in the Overland Campaign, in particular, the potential use of combined forces. We then discussed the nature of the Wilderness battlefield as extremely difficult to maneuver through and thus terrifying for the men fighting throught it. We then went to Ellwood, where, most notably, Stonewall Jackson’s arm. We moved on next to Saunders Field, where we discussed the action there and – perhaps one of the most disturbing aspects of the Wilderness – the fires that broke out and consumed the dead and wounded. We finished the morning with stops at the Tapp Field and Chewning Farm, where Mr. Pfanz explained the actions of Texas Brigade and Lee’s rather legendary attempt to lead them into the fray.

After lunch at the Spotsylvania Courthouse Café, we proceeded to a brief tour of the battle at Spotsylvania. We began by discussing the so-called “Mule Shoe salient” and Colonel Upton’s assault there. The most sobering stop on our visit was that at the Bloody Angle, where we discussed the action there that was perhaps the hardest and bloodiest fighting of the entire Civil War. Thereafter, Mr. Pfanz explained the end of the battle and foreshadowed our visit the next day at Cold Harbor. We finished the day with a stop at the Massaponax Church, where a famous photograph was taken of Grant holding a council of war outside on the church’s pews. Saturday, on to Cold Harbor and Petersburg!

Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Gettysburg, Town and Pickett's Charge

The cold morning of November 6, we met John Heiser on the front porch of the Appleford. John runs the library at the Gettysburg National Military Park, and I’ve been interning with him this semester – so it was nice to see a familiar face as one of our tour guides! We began by going through the history of Gettysburg the town prior to, during, and just subsequent to the battle. First, we went to the train station, and John explained that Gettysburg was a fairly bustling frontier town center by July 1863. As we walked through town, we discussed the various buildings with individuals present during or significant to the battle – and John impressed upon us how utterly and thoroughly July 1863 impacted the citizens of Gettysburg.

After John acquainted us with the history of the town we’ve been living in for the past few months, we made our way to the battlefield itself in order to discuss the farms and homes there. These included the McPherson Farm, the Snyder Farm, the Bushman Farm, and the Trostle Farm. Personally, I found the Bushman Farm to be particularly interesting, as there is a barn on the property that may date from as early as the late 1790s!

After lunch, we met Scott Hartwig, the chief historian at the GNMP, for a discussion of Pickett’s Charge and the final day at Gettysburg. He began by explaining Lee’s motivations for Pickett’s Charge and Meade’s reasons for staying in the defensive position he held on the evening of July 2. We then discussed Cushing’s Battery and the position of the 69th Pennsylvania and their efforts to repulse the Confederate attack. After that, we walked down toward the Virginia monument and made our way back, walking the route of Pickett’s Charge. We stopped several times along the way to discuss the preliminary artillery bombardment, the order of the Confederate advance, and accounts from the men involved. We concluded the walk with a discussion of the Union victory at Gettysburg and its implications, and got back on the bus just as the sun set. Next weekend, on to Richmond!

Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Gettysburg, Day Two

This week, we were lucky to be joined by John Rudy and Cathy Bain, who have helped us immensely over the course of the semester with everything from getting this blog running to helping us with more personal problems. After they joined us at the Appleford, we met up with John Archer at Seminary Ridge.

We began our day with a discussion of the advantages of Meade’s interior lines and possession of strategic positions on the morning of July 2 in contrast with Lee’s longer line and the troubles he had with communication and reinforcement as a result. Mr. Archer then explained the infamous Longstreet at Gettysburg issue as well as the problems with and consequences of Sickles’ decision to alter his line of battle. We then made our way to the Peach Orchard, where we learned about the salient and the bloody action there. (I should mention here that both Cathy and Dr. Guelzo gave me blankets at this point because I can’t handle any cold whatsoever, for which I truly thank them!) We were also treated to the beginning of a debate between John Archer and Dr. Guelzo that would amusingly span the day – did Wright’s brigade break through the Philadelphia Brigade’s position on Cemetery Ridge?

After the Peach Orchard, John Archer discussed the Wheatfield, Devil’s Den, and spent little time talking about Little Round Top. (We’ve all read The Killer Angels. And seen Gettysburg.) We then made our way to the Trostle Farm, where Sickles suffered a leg wound that would lead to amputation – and allegedly enjoyed a cigar while he was carried away from the field. In another perhaps tasteless Gettysburg Semester tradition, we imitated Sickles’ loss of leg while Dr. Guelzo reenacted the general’s reaction to the injury by smoking a cigar.

As soon as we finished a delicious but coma-inducing lunch at the Pike, we went to Benner’s Hill and Mr. Archer explained the artillery battle that raged between the batteries there and those under Colonel Wainwright. We then made our way to Culp’s Hill, where we compared several photographs taken after the battle fromWilliam Frassanito’s books to the sites we were seeing. We also discussed the harsh and bloody fighting here – and were given the evidence by looking at a small burial pit near the 2nd Maryland monument. Our final stop was Cemetery Hill, and once again, Mr. Archer and Dr. Guelzo explained the importance of that position in the battle. Next week, we will return to Gettysburg for a tour of the Third Day and the town of Gettysburg itself with Scott Hartwig and John Heiser.

Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Gettysburg, Day One

Last Friday, we slept in and stayed home for a tour of the First Day at Gettysburg! Although we’ve all been to the battlefield before – certainly since being here, including a few walks with our own Zack Fry – I was excited to begin the Gettysburg Semester’s three-week exploration of the battle. We met our guide, John Archer, at East Cemetery Hill, which he and Dr. Guelzo explained was the reason for fighting at Gettysburg. We were able to understand this looking around, for the plateau commands a view of the entire surrounding area.

Making our way to the location of the alleged location of the “first shot” fired during the battle, John Archer explained the reasons for Lee’s invasion and impressed upon us that the fighting at Gettysburg was not planned. We then made our way to McPherson’s Ridge, where Mr. Archer described Buford’s holding action and Reynolds’ arrival. We followed a path through the woods to Willoughby Run, where we discussed the Iron Brigade’s flanking maneuvers against Archer’s men. (Not to mention enjoyed the lovely fall colors while we were surrounded by trees and falling leaves!)

We then continued to the unfinished railroad cut, where Mr. Archer explained the fighting of the 6th Wisconsin, the 14th Brooklyn, and the 95th New York there. (My darling roommate even sported a 14th Brooklyn kepi!) We then went to Oak Ridge and Oak Hill, where we discussed the bloody action between Iverson’s and Robinson’s men – and Jacob Dinkelaker made some hilarious tasteless jokes about Sally Ann, the 11th Pennsylvania’s mascot dog. We also talked about issues of battlefield preservation and tourism at Gettysburg, including Gettysburg College’s destruction of the other railroad cut.

After eating at the Appleford, we made our way to Barlow’s Knoll, and Mr. Archer explained the composition of the Eleventh Corps and their fighting against and retreat from Gordon on July 1. Afterward, we made our way back to the woods, discussing the First Corps retreat and walking the 24th Michigan’s fighting retreat from the 26th South Carolina. We concluded the day on Seminary Ridge with an explanation of the Union retreat through town, their last stand at Seminary Ridge, and their ultimate withdrawal to Cemetery Hill. Just as Mr. Archer finished his discussion about the criticism of Ewell for not taking Cemetery Hill, it began to rain and we headed back into the bus. This week, we’re staying here again for Gettysburg, Day Two!

Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville

On Friday, October 16, we left Gettysburg for Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville, bundled up against the cold and rain. Upon arrival, we soon discovered that these battlefields are a testament to those throughout the country that suffer from encroaching development and lack of preservation. Nevertheless, our guide, Greg Mertz, was able to make his tour incredibly meaningful. He provided us with incredibly interesting documents about each of our regiments, which we read aloud at intervals over the course of the day. I think we all greatly appreciated Mr. Mertz’s efforts for us in this respect – for my part, the letters and diaries he gave me really drove home the soldier’s experience at Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville.

In the morning, we toured Fredericksburg. Our first stop was along the Rappahannock, where we discussed the Federal troops’ crossing of the river and the heated action in the town. We then headed toward Marye’s Heights, where despite development, we were able to truly understand the horrifying futility of the Union attacks there. Discussing the casualties many of our regiments suffered was chilling. We finished the tour of Fredericksburg with a visit to Prospect Hill and went over Franklin’s attack and the Confederate position there.

After lunch and the obligatory bookstore visit, we moved on to Chancellorsville. After Mr. Mertz detailed Lee’s plans for the upcoming battle, we went to the area of Howard’s XI Corps position. Here, Jackson launched an attack against the unprepared corps, which was forced into a hasty retreat. We then made our way to the Chancellorsville Visitor’s Center and the approximate spot where Jackson was mortally wounded in the battle. Thereafter, we rode toward Hazel Grove and walked toward Fairview, surveying Sickles’ position there and the consequences of the Union abandonment of it. We concluded our tour with a visit to the Salem Church and a brief talk about the action there – and Mr. Mertz pointed out the position of my regiment, the 2nd Rhode Island, as “near the Taco Bell.” (Certainly unfortunate evidence of a lack of battlefield preservation.)

After a long, rainy drive back home, most of us finished the day with dinner with Dr. Guelzo at Tommy’s and continued to discuss the Civil War over pizza – a lovely end to the day, if I do say so myself! Next week, we’re staying in Gettysburg to discuss the first day. (And let’s all hope for better weather, shall we?)

Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Antietam

During the second week of October, we departed early and made our way to Antietam. We were greeted by unseasonably warm weather – a welcome change from our previous trips! This was the first battlefield that we’d visited that I’d seen prior to the Gettysburg Semester, so I was excited to see and experience it again.

We were very fortunate to have Dennis Frye as our guide for the second time, particularly because so much of his personal and family history has ties to the Battle of Antietam. After becoming acquainted with the topography of the area, we went to the Pry House, McClellan’s headquarters during the battle. Here, Mr. Frye challenged us to consider the battle in terms of contemporary practicality rather than focus heavily on reports – which, especially in McClellan’s case, are not always trustworthy.

We then made our way to the Cornfield and the West Woods, where Dennis Frye took us to an area where, as he described, the terrain truly changed the course of American history. We learned that the action at the West Woods was the (extremely bloody) turning point in the battle, as it put McClellan on the defensive for the remainder of the day.

After leaving the West Woods, we headed to the Sunken Road (or “Bloody Lane”), where Mr. Frye argued that contrary to popular belief, French’s division did not get lost – rather, their arrival there was entirely intentional given the realities of terrain and position. Before leaving, we participated in a Gettysburg Semester tradition: reenacting “the bloat” from Alexander Gardner’s famous photographs of the Bloody Lane after the battle. (Insensitive, yes, but tradition IS tradition!) We then got ourselves up and climbed the stairs to the top of the observation tower, where Mr. Frye told us a moving story about the discovery of several soldiers from the Irish Brigade who were partially buried on the battlefield.

Our final stop was Burnside’s Bridge, where Mr. Frye maintained that Burnside’s actions were brilliant, rather than foolish, at Antietam. After a group picture (sans Dr. Guelzo) on the bridge, we went to Nutter’s ice cream – the perfect complement to a long, hot, and incredibly enjoyable day on the battlefield! As we drove back to the Visitor’s Center, Dennis Frye explained the end of the battle and Lee’s withdrawal on the 18th of September. Overall, a great trip – on to Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville next week!