Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Gettysburg, Day One

Last Friday, we slept in and stayed home for a tour of the First Day at Gettysburg! Although we’ve all been to the battlefield before – certainly since being here, including a few walks with our own Zack Fry – I was excited to begin the Gettysburg Semester’s three-week exploration of the battle. We met our guide, John Archer, at East Cemetery Hill, which he and Dr. Guelzo explained was the reason for fighting at Gettysburg. We were able to understand this looking around, for the plateau commands a view of the entire surrounding area.

Making our way to the location of the alleged location of the “first shot” fired during the battle, John Archer explained the reasons for Lee’s invasion and impressed upon us that the fighting at Gettysburg was not planned. We then made our way to McPherson’s Ridge, where Mr. Archer described Buford’s holding action and Reynolds’ arrival. We followed a path through the woods to Willoughby Run, where we discussed the Iron Brigade’s flanking maneuvers against Archer’s men. (Not to mention enjoyed the lovely fall colors while we were surrounded by trees and falling leaves!)

We then continued to the unfinished railroad cut, where Mr. Archer explained the fighting of the 6th Wisconsin, the 14th Brooklyn, and the 95th New York there. (My darling roommate even sported a 14th Brooklyn kepi!) We then went to Oak Ridge and Oak Hill, where we discussed the bloody action between Iverson’s and Robinson’s men – and Jacob Dinkelaker made some hilarious tasteless jokes about Sally Ann, the 11th Pennsylvania’s mascot dog. We also talked about issues of battlefield preservation and tourism at Gettysburg, including Gettysburg College’s destruction of the other railroad cut.

After eating at the Appleford, we made our way to Barlow’s Knoll, and Mr. Archer explained the composition of the Eleventh Corps and their fighting against and retreat from Gordon on July 1. Afterward, we made our way back to the woods, discussing the First Corps retreat and walking the 24th Michigan’s fighting retreat from the 26th South Carolina. We concluded the day on Seminary Ridge with an explanation of the Union retreat through town, their last stand at Seminary Ridge, and their ultimate withdrawal to Cemetery Hill. Just as Mr. Archer finished his discussion about the criticism of Ewell for not taking Cemetery Hill, it began to rain and we headed back into the bus. This week, we’re staying here again for Gettysburg, Day Two!

Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville

On Friday, October 16, we left Gettysburg for Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville, bundled up against the cold and rain. Upon arrival, we soon discovered that these battlefields are a testament to those throughout the country that suffer from encroaching development and lack of preservation. Nevertheless, our guide, Greg Mertz, was able to make his tour incredibly meaningful. He provided us with incredibly interesting documents about each of our regiments, which we read aloud at intervals over the course of the day. I think we all greatly appreciated Mr. Mertz’s efforts for us in this respect – for my part, the letters and diaries he gave me really drove home the soldier’s experience at Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville.

In the morning, we toured Fredericksburg. Our first stop was along the Rappahannock, where we discussed the Federal troops’ crossing of the river and the heated action in the town. We then headed toward Marye’s Heights, where despite development, we were able to truly understand the horrifying futility of the Union attacks there. Discussing the casualties many of our regiments suffered was chilling. We finished the tour of Fredericksburg with a visit to Prospect Hill and went over Franklin’s attack and the Confederate position there.

After lunch and the obligatory bookstore visit, we moved on to Chancellorsville. After Mr. Mertz detailed Lee’s plans for the upcoming battle, we went to the area of Howard’s XI Corps position. Here, Jackson launched an attack against the unprepared corps, which was forced into a hasty retreat. We then made our way to the Chancellorsville Visitor’s Center and the approximate spot where Jackson was mortally wounded in the battle. Thereafter, we rode toward Hazel Grove and walked toward Fairview, surveying Sickles’ position there and the consequences of the Union abandonment of it. We concluded our tour with a visit to the Salem Church and a brief talk about the action there – and Mr. Mertz pointed out the position of my regiment, the 2nd Rhode Island, as “near the Taco Bell.” (Certainly unfortunate evidence of a lack of battlefield preservation.)

After a long, rainy drive back home, most of us finished the day with dinner with Dr. Guelzo at Tommy’s and continued to discuss the Civil War over pizza – a lovely end to the day, if I do say so myself! Next week, we’re staying in Gettysburg to discuss the first day. (And let’s all hope for better weather, shall we?)

Gettysburg Semester 2009 - Antietam

During the second week of October, we departed early and made our way to Antietam. We were greeted by unseasonably warm weather – a welcome change from our previous trips! This was the first battlefield that we’d visited that I’d seen prior to the Gettysburg Semester, so I was excited to see and experience it again.

We were very fortunate to have Dennis Frye as our guide for the second time, particularly because so much of his personal and family history has ties to the Battle of Antietam. After becoming acquainted with the topography of the area, we went to the Pry House, McClellan’s headquarters during the battle. Here, Mr. Frye challenged us to consider the battle in terms of contemporary practicality rather than focus heavily on reports – which, especially in McClellan’s case, are not always trustworthy.

We then made our way to the Cornfield and the West Woods, where Dennis Frye took us to an area where, as he described, the terrain truly changed the course of American history. We learned that the action at the West Woods was the (extremely bloody) turning point in the battle, as it put McClellan on the defensive for the remainder of the day.

After leaving the West Woods, we headed to the Sunken Road (or “Bloody Lane”), where Mr. Frye argued that contrary to popular belief, French’s division did not get lost – rather, their arrival there was entirely intentional given the realities of terrain and position. Before leaving, we participated in a Gettysburg Semester tradition: reenacting “the bloat” from Alexander Gardner’s famous photographs of the Bloody Lane after the battle. (Insensitive, yes, but tradition IS tradition!) We then got ourselves up and climbed the stairs to the top of the observation tower, where Mr. Frye told us a moving story about the discovery of several soldiers from the Irish Brigade who were partially buried on the battlefield.

Our final stop was Burnside’s Bridge, where Mr. Frye maintained that Burnside’s actions were brilliant, rather than foolish, at Antietam. After a group picture (sans Dr. Guelzo) on the bridge, we went to Nutter’s ice cream – the perfect complement to a long, hot, and incredibly enjoyable day on the battlefield! As we drove back to the Visitor’s Center, Dennis Frye explained the end of the battle and Lee’s withdrawal on the 18th of September. Overall, a great trip – on to Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville next week!